Off-limits for 100 years. Thank goodness.
Vis was sent from heaven above. A tropical microclimate warms this otherworldly cradle of culture, crustaceans and only-found-here wine. Sybarites can demolish cocktails and ceviche in Lola Bar. This bucolic boozer is shaded by flowering jasmine. Restaurant Pojoda occupies an old citrus grove. Lemons have been known to tumble into diners’ risottos, which simply adds to the understated glamour.
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Your Guide to Vis
Vis’s little sister island Biševo has 15 residents, one beach and one amazing cave. The Blue Cave is like Capri’s Grotta Azzurra. Sunshine sparkles through cracks in the roof, casting an astral dreamscape on swimmers below.
Vis’s enviable location, midway between Croatia and Italy, has its downsides. During the 20th century Vis was off-limits as a military base. Daredevil historians can swim through a 120m-long submarine tunnel. Splendid isolation also safeguarded Vis’s signature dish: octopus slow-cooked under an iron lid, in an open fire.
Two roads lead to Vis’s feral northern coast. The first was built by the island’s Austro-Hungarian rulers, and runs pancake flat through fragrant forest. The second was constructed by the Yugoslavian military, and ribbons up and down a mountainside. Thrill seekers would duel both on a rented scooter. The ultimate image of Vis is Stiniva Beach. Croatia's most telegenic sands are hidden by a curtain of rock, which protects a topaz lagoon. Your luxury yacht tender will meet you there.
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